Archives for posts with tag: Architecture

When the Dutch laid claim and established a settlement on “Manhattoes” in the 17th century, the strategic value of the wooded jut between two mighty waterways was already readily apparent. “We found a very agreeable site located within two small prominent hills in the midst of which flowed to the sea a very big river, which was deep within the mouth,” explorer Giovanni da Verrazano had written in 1524.[1]

The prospects for Lagos Island, a water-hemmed city at times branded Africa’s Manhattan, were hazier given its “natural difficulties caused by winds, tides, the rainy season, the rough bar, and [ships] being obliged to anchor for safety far out at sea”—a situation John Whitford observed in 1875 that did not prevent merchants from being nonetheless “alive to its importance” given the lack of protected ports on the West African coast.[2] Lagos Island had for centuries prior been a place of intercoastal but not globally significant trade, a sea-level sandbar severed from the Atlantic by a notoriously wrathful channel until its early nineteenth century rise as a Portuguese slavers’ haunt.

An 1859 map of Lagos Island and the notorious channel linking it to the Atlantic. (Image source)

Across the ocean, it was through a fort, taverns, farms, storehouses, townhomes, and churches that a growing cosmopolitan enclave at New Amsterdam clung to and eventually found its prosperous footings in the New World. In Lagos, it was through houses that an initial foothold and then a sturdier leg up out of the soggy landscape was probed as waves of new arrivals carved out a small island kingdom, a vibrant entrepôt, a colony, a capital, and eventually the urban colossus of over 20 million people we know today.

Across a kaleidoscopic diversity of forms and arrangements, houses have maintained their paramount importance in Lagos even as the city has developed a crippling housing shortfall.

The question of housing has now become New Yorkers’ top concern, and with the election of Zohran Mamdani as the city’s Mayor, there is an openness to policies untested by conventional American politics.[3] The concept of social housing has gained momentum in New York and is embraced by Mamdani. Many of its examples and principles come from celebrated European case studies like Vienna where over 60 percent of residents live in municipal housing. A new generation of New Yorkers with Mamdani—an African American from Uganda, the son of an eminent African political science professor, and an undergraduate Africana Studies major himself—as their voice may also be able to find inspiration and insights from the fastest urbanizing continent and its largest city, Lagos.

Looking at Lagos’s historical homes—learning from Lagos on its own terms as the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas once proposed (but fell short of)[4]—offers ideas and an image in the form of its ilé house typology, I suggest, for seeing past the straitjacket of contemporary housing discourse.

These increasingly urgent conversations about our global housing shortage have often become so narrowed and mired in a myopic way of seeing—as seen in the first New York mayor’s debate[5]—that they completely miss the expansiveness of possibilities and pathways inherent in human inhabitation of a place, of what houses are and can be.

In other words, Lagos holds depths for thinking broader and more boldly about one of the world’s greatest challenges today.[6] The city’s histories and architectures may offer clues and references for the Mamdani generation in imagining social housing policies that break fresh ground.

A City of Upheaval Reinventing Itself Through Ilé

What we can piece together about the early history of Lagos houses comes from oral traditions and travelers’ accounts that describe great earthen compounds containing courtyards that were the hubs of communal life on the island. To be someone—to have rights, privileges, and protections—in the small precolonial Lagos kingdom of Èkó was to belong to a compound and be affiliated with its founding family: ilé in Yoruba refers both a house and a kinship network. Yorubaland was famed for its planned urbanism prototyped on its holy city Ilé-Ifẹ̀ (house of expansion), and houses were its defining infrastructure, their bustling inner yards serving as the spaces where politics, production of wares, and social life were centered.

Homes were also works of artistry, crafted over generations with carved pillars and other embellishments that demarcated the prestige and stories of their ilé. The German explorer Leo Frobenius was so impressed by architecture in Yorubaland, writing, “[the] originality of the building … struck me dumb,” that he felt the need to attribute it to a lost Etruscan race via its homes’ impluvium (water collecting) features.[7] 

1910 Leo Frobenius photographs of the courtyard of a traditional Yoruba ilé and carved pillars from Yoruba architecture. (Image source 1 and 2)

Similar hubris reigned in the 1851 British naval decision to bomb and occupy the island under the claim of ending its slave trade.[8] While British rule was initially precariously carried out by just a handful of colonial agents, the city’s position as a place of exchange of palm oil and other goods between the African interior and Atlantic blossomed. In this “fluorescence period” of cultural mixing and experimentation, African and creole merchants were the city’s scions, building distinctively Lagos-style houses that drew on Brazilian, Middle Eastern, and Victorian influence to transform Yoruba ilé for a new era.

Interiors of these houses incorporated ilé’s familiar spatial scaffolding with rooms splaying off a central passageway and integrated workshops and stores within the home. Smaller houses throughout the city adopted similar floorplans and became diminutive versions of the famous mansions mushrooming above the low-lying cityscape. These homes celebrated their status with flare, their owners annually replastering the exteriors with flower motifs and other fashionable patterns swirling in from the Atlantic in a practice that evoked the Yoruba àṣọ ẹbí culture of dressing one’s kin in matching fabric.

Modest Lagos Style rowhomes (1908), and the famed pillars of Ebun House (1920), a celebrated example of the Lagos Style. (Image sources: National Archives UK and source)

These new forms of ilé became how a Black cosmopolitan class of Yoruba and returned former slaves reclaimed the city as their own, sinking roots into the sandbar and signaling their long-term investment (and thus their creditworthiness within new practices of mortgaging) amidst the ebbs and flows of the city’s waterways and the mercurial tides of commerce they carried.

A remarkable 1885 map surveyed by a West African named W.T.G. Lawson includes the names of 125 prominent Lagosians, indicating where they resided on the island. Prominent members like Táíwò Ọlówó—who had risen from an enslaved child to a great merchant with a sprawling multi-courtyard compound in the Faji District[9]—were held to high standards by the community in their roles as landlords and patrons, being expected to use their wealth and status generously and conspicuously to look out for their people. As Táíwò’s 1901 obituary celebrated, “with him money became wealth in the fullest sense of the term,” as he lived up to the expectation to infuse his gains back into the neighborhood and networks that made them possible.

1885 map of Lagos Island by W. T. C. Lawson plotting the Lagos Style houses of 125 of the city’s most prominent residents. (Source)

Yet with the turn of the century, this class of homeowners would be kneecapped at every turn by the colonial administration as it refined its ability to wield land and housing as instruments of power. Colonial agents targeted and undercut Black Lagosians who aspired to follow in men like Táíwò’s footsteps by passing impossible housing regulations requiring the use of materials not readily available in the colony and restricting credit along racial lines, driving their mortgages underwater and confiscating their property as a means of expanding and consolidating British rule.

Under imperialism, Lagos planners conceived of houses in blunt terms of power and physical occupation, erecting brick and iron structures to assert colonial officers’ position above African subjects. The hulking waterfront Government House (1896) epitomized this desire to dominate with architecture. To build these estates, British governors seized premier city lots, eventually creating segregated enclaves under the pretext of health policy. Colonial reports portrayed Lagosians’ homes as incubators of disease, writing that Africans’ “mud huts and timber houses … cannot be called houses.”[10] Yet, the archive shows that the Foreign Office’s own studies revealed more mosquitoes lurking in colonial quarters than African.[11] Like so much of colonial planning in Lagos, an aesthetic project was prioritized over actual empirical or historical inquiry.

Government House on Lagos Island (1896) and British officer bungalows in the segregated enclave of Ikoyi (1923). (Image sources: National Archives UK)

It was on the steps of Government House that the father of Nigerian nationalism, Herbert Macaulay, made his famous 1912 case against British land grabs in Lagos, bemoaning that these schemes were not for the health and development of natives, but part of a system predicated on getting “at the Tin Mines far away yonder” in Nigeria’s interior.[12]

Visions of what a proper colonial city should look like—surveillable with straight streets and uniform structures to facilitate the imperial port’s purpose of efficient extraction—drove housing decisions. Ilé, with their interlocking courtyards, organic materials, and odd angled annexes housing all assortments and comings-and-goings of kin were viewed as impediments to progress.

Bewildered by these arrangements, successive Lagos governors extended housing’s role beyond political and sanitary agendas, turning it into a means of directing and disciplining the city’s labor force. Barracks and small rentals became shelters for the city’s growing working class as Lagos became the capital of amalgamated colonial Nigeria (1916). Those deemed unemployable by the government were left homeless or in precarious dependency on hosts in the African side of the city, creating a new African landlord class who could leverage housing precarity to extract greater demands on their dependents and tenants. Shelter was no longer something taken for granted in Lagos; it had become a tool for organizing and directing resident’s toil toward colonial capitalism’s ends, leading to novel forms of poverty—and their policing by the state—previously not widely known in the city. Slums were emerging and, rather than assisting them, colonial agents fined and harassed their residents.

An 1891 cadastral map of Lagos showing the honeycombed density of African housing. (Image source: National Archives UK)

In this environment, houses became symbols of anti-colonial struggle with the African Mail writing of Lagos in 1908, “The natives begin to see that it is [Europeans] who are finding money to build all these fine palaces; … the people look at their own poor little huts alongside the palatial buildings of the European and wonder how long and how far this thing is to go.”

Yet the housing situation deteriorated further in the increasingly congested African sections of the city, as 86 percent of Lagos’s land had been expropriated by the Crown by 1947. This compression of 97 percent of the population into just 14 percent of the city’s area gave British planners new opportunities to recast the deprivation of African housing as justification for its seizure and demolition. In the name of the emerging concept of “development,” postwar officials transformed a century of colonial neglect and coercion on the African side of the city into the rationale for large-scale clearance.

This self-serving gambit reached its crescendo with plans in the 1950s to raze central Lagos without any actual analysis of the history, economics, or dynamic nature of the neighborhood. Thousands of market women marched against the scheme that would destroy the livelihoods and community sustained by the area’s mosaic of ilé. The sociologist Peter Marris’s 1950s surveys of central Lagos provide a counter-history to colonial claims of blight and backwardness, detailing a thriving hub where ilé principles of trust and mutual support had been reimagined to sustain extended social and commercial networks.[13] As a result of these relationships, Marris found that rents were paradoxically lower in the center of the city than elsewhere, as landlords and tenants who had known each other for years calibrated a rate that worked for both parties.

Demolition of central Lagos went forward nonetheless, making way for tall office buildings that constructed an image of a downtown befitting the capital of Britain’s West African crown jewel. Again, Lagos papers called out the game—that on the eve of independence the city was being turned “into a citadel for foreigners whilst the natives will be made to live in the mainland.”[14] Marris went on to document how central Lagos’s former residents suffered declines in their health, social lives, and financial positions in the supposedly superior modern estate where they were relocated on the mainland.

British planners’ presentation of the “disorder” and “village-mentality” of the to-be demolished Central Lagos (left) contrasted to the “order” and modernity of the estate for relocated residents (right), 1957. (Image sources: Lagos Executive Board Annual Report and Accounts (1957–1958))

Housing in Lagos grew upward in the form of cement low-rises as the city boomed from one million people in 1965 to five million in 1985. These mass apartments maintained the spatial logics of ilé through the arrangement of rooms along long central hallways. For those who could find a place in these tight-knit and aptly named “face-me-I-face-you” tenements, houses were a lifeboat amidst dizzying change in the postcolonial city. Housing blocks became mutual support communities while a succession of military dictatorships largely neglected the booming city’s municipal functions. Becoming part of these webs of landlord-tenant networks and their intricately defined social obligations became what a 1972 Lagos newspaper described as “a protective jacket” for the city’s residents.[15] These relationships and the city’s exponential population growth further amplified the value of homes, which was a grounded asset amidst the heady and speculative oil boom years after petroleum was discovered in Nigeria.

Leo Frobenius’s floorplan of a traditional Yoruba ilé and similar spatial logic in a 1970s “face-me” tenement floorplan. (Image source 1 and 2)

In the 21st century, Lagos houses have increasingly become financial instruments used to park and clean cash in what has been described as Nigeria’s “vampire” economy of an elite jet-setting class funneling off petroleum rents for private enrichment. Today, despite court injunctions, entire neighborhoods with generations of history and the few remaining Lagos-style houses (like the appallingly lost 200-year-old Ilojo Bar)[16] are being demolished and their residents displaced to make way for fortress-like mansions in gated enclaves disconnected from social and civic life. These forced evictions and a dire shortage of affordable housing are pushing residents and an endless sprawl of newcomers further into the rising waters on the frontlines of climate change.

Today, Lagos has a housing deficiency well over 5 million units, making cities like New York’s housing crisis appear manageable by comparison.[17]

A Lifeless Policy Playbook

The conventional prescription for Lagos and other cities with spiraling housing shortages is simply “to build more housing,” to find ways to unleash markets forces to generate new supply and—as the logic goes—to deflate housing costs. But Lagos is pure market, a hyper-capitalist frontier where new units should be popping up to satisfy immense demand. Yet this is not happening. Yes, land titling can be difficult in the legally layered city, but it is not impossible, and ọmọ onílẹ̀ (descendants of original landholders) with secure rights should have little problem building more housing and collecting further rents.

The problem is that the market is working: why would these landowners build mass housing and collect the drips of small leases when they can build manors for the city’s elite that command exponentially higher sums in one fell swoop? Lagos has become a legendarily stratified city with wealth disparities as pronounced as anywhere in the world. In 2016 it was calculated that luxury properties in Lagos ranged from 80 million to 1.3 billion Naira, whereas the average Lagosian earned far less than 120,000 naira per year.[18] The profit margins explain why the city’s developers focus almost exclusively on high-end properties. As Adéwálé Májà-Pearce has written, in contemporary Lagos, there is an overriding “interest in using what land can be had to house the elite.”[19]

One of many empty plots in an upscale Lagos neighborhood. (Author’s photograph)

Economists are starting to appreciate the ways in which this cliff between the richest and the rest skews markets in perverse ways. Disney World offers a case study in how the economic incentives are clear: targeting the ultrarich and leaving everyone else behind is just profitable business today.[20] Professional sports are seeing a similar shift towards targeting customers able to pay for premium experiences.[21] Washington, DC provides another datapoint against the “unleash supply” mantra of abundance[22]: the city granted private developers billions in subsidies since 2002 which created new units, yet “rents during this same timeframe increased roughly 55 percent” as developers built high end apartments almost exclusively, often gutting or demolishing affordable homes in the process.[23]

When housing becomes a luxury commodity out of reach to most, a city’s social fabric begins to breakdown. Houses—in all their myriads of forms—have historically been vessels for sustaining kinship bonds and allowing those ties to be nurtured, reproduced, and passed down. When that hearth is out of reach, a crisis of social reproduction occurs. As Nomusa Makhubu describes, Lagos’s film industry, Nollywood, is resplendent with films telling this tale of sterile mansions stocked with luxury items but no familial life. Frequently the movie plots revolve around uncovering a secret occult shrine that has possessed the house and its would-be patriarch.[24] What would it mean to exorcise limiting concepts of housing in Lagos writ large?

In place of houses becoming objects of capitalist possession unattached from the sociological cloth of cities, how do we reimagine houses and housing not only in Lagos but globally? Lagos’s historical ilé forms and their stubbornly resilient remnants offer a starting point to explore the wide spectrum of social and material architectures that can form housing and the possibilities to which secure housing gives life.

Learning from Lagos’s Legacy of Ilé

In Lagos, it is common to come upon houses with the hand-painted sign: “this house is not for sale.” This arises because con artists frequently sell other people’s homes to unsuspecting buyers. The notion of a home being sold off through a con echoes the discourse surrounding the flight of the country’s oil resources, from which the majority of the citizens do not benefit. The “crisis” of the home is symbolic of the “crisis” of the nation. As a visual metaphor, the home or the house is correlated to deception, illusion, or the ruse through which the experience of place is inseparable from image and imagination.

—Nomusa Makhubu, “This House Is Not for Sale”

In all their iterations and adaptations, ilé’s shared courtyards and communal spaces have meant stability and continuity, while also serving as sites of creativity and hospitality where reciprocal obligations of caretaking and custodianship have trumped possessive extraction. In other words, ilé are social housing and are what made Lagos possible as a city. Even across a century of colonial and postcolonial upheaval, housing animated by these underlying concepts have helped Lagosians remain in place and resist the imperial and financial forces that would dislodge them. Ilé remain a powerful architectural fabric in the city despite immense and intensifying pressure to displace Lagosians and reduce their homes to luxury commodities.

Can ilé-derived house types be preserved and creatively expanded to make up more of Lagos’s housing? In a city where 80 percent of high-end house buyers do not reside in the city, creating laws and incentives that reward the ilé model and enact costs on anti-social housing developments would be a place to start. For this to happen, the city needs designers, planners, and policymakers who are willing to look beyond broken supply-side economics and—with historical homes as muse—look at the fullness of possibilities of what housing could become.

Here would be the place to neatly drop in the most cited Lagosian architectural project of the past several years—the royal blue Makoko floating school—as an uplifting prototype for a path forward. Yet, as Allyn Gaestel chronicles in her article, “Things Fall Apart,” the now iconic A-frame won international accolades while it sat falling into disrepair, rarely holding classes because toilets and blackboards were not included in the design and parents wisely feared the structure’s violent swaying. [25]A week after it won the Venice Biennale’s Silver Lion Award, it splintered to pieces in a storm. Climate change and a century of a neighborhood’s marginalization cannot be conquered by a slick design, no matter how brilliant.

The iconic blue roof of Makoko floating school. (Author’s photograph)

If there is a Lagos “architecture” to look in search of the spirit of ilé, Justice and Power Initiatives (JEI), an organization that endlessly advocates and builds coalitions for the city’s slum dwellers is a better place to start. These residents are constantly under threat of violent state-sponsored evictions yet have built an organization in JEI to sustain a movement and demand attention and dignity.[26] Unfortunately, JEI’s work is not nearly as memetic as Makoko floating school.

Back in Manhattan and the surrounding boroughs, a growing coalition of housing advocates, architects, and legislators is advancing a renewed vision for social housing—one that treats homes as public goods rather than speculative assets. Proposals such as the creation of a Social Housing Development Authority would empower the city or state to build, acquire, and rehabilitate permanently affordable housing under democratic governance, ensuring residents—not private investors—shape how their communities evolve. This emerging framework, echoed in campaigns like Housing Justice for All and Representative Ocasio-Cortez’s call to recognize housing as a human right, seeks to replace extractive development with models that are inclusive, sustainable, and oriented toward long-term social value. Because housing is not just advocacy and socio-economic policy, but architecture, these campaigns will need compelling images and cultural references to succeed—particularly in the extreme visuality that our politics—as seen in the nearly cinematic campaign of Mamdani—now inhabits.

Zohran Mamdani’s winning campaign put affordability and housing at its core, explicitly endorsing the creation of a Social Housing Development Authority to finance public and cooperative housing through state capital. Now that Mamdani has been sworn in, there is hope that he can lead a movement to think bigger in embracing novel housing models. Lagos and its legacy of ilé offer inspiration where housing is inseparable from community, craftsmanship, and mutual care. Drawing on this model and its historical images, it is possible to imagine housing not merely as shelter but as social infrastructure for cities like New York—an opening to rebuild trust and belonging for the next generation.


Notes

[1] “Man in the News: He Came Here in 1524: Giovanni da Verrazano,” New York Times, November 21, 1964.

[2] John Whitford, Trading Life in Western and Central Africa (Liverpool: The “Porcupine” Office, 1877), 86.

[3] Community Service Society of New York, “Affordable Housing and Access to Healthcare Are Top Concerns of NYC Residents,” press release, December 14, 2023, Community Service Society News, https://www.cssny.org/news/entry/affordable-housing-and-access-to-healthcare-are-top-concerns-of-nyc-residen.

[4] Mark Duerksen, “The Koolhass Effect: Hot Air over Lagos,” Johannesburg Workshop in Theory and Criticism (JWTC), https://jwtc.org.za/test/mark_duerksen.htm.

[5] Housing New York: The Debate Had a Lot of Housing Talk, but the Next Mayor Needs Bigger Ideas,” New York Times, October 23, 2025, https://www.nytimes.com/2025/10/23/opinion/housing-new-york-mayor-cuomo-mamdani.html.

[6] Mark Duerksen, “Lagoon: Hidden Depths to Housing Schemes across Independence in Lagos, Nigeria,” Journal of West African History 7, no. 2 (2021): 49–90, https://scholarlypublishingcollective.org/msup/jwah/article-abstract/7/2/49/294077/LagoonHidden-Depths-to-Housing-Schemes-across

[7] Leo Frobenius, The Voice of Africa, vol. 1 (London: Hutchinson, 1913), https://library.si.edu/digital-library/book/voiceofafricabei01frob

[8] The Crown did not officially outlaw domestic slavery in the Southern Nigerian Protectorate until 1916.

[9] While Táíwò held slaves himself, he was representative of the ways that land grants and the establishment of a house became an avenue for late nineteenth century enslaved people in Lagos to liberate themselves from systems of bondage that the British were reluctant to abolish out of fear of dislocating production.

[10] As quoted in Stephanie Newell, Histories of Dirt: Media and Urban Life in Colonial and Postcolonial Lagos (Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2020).

[11] “Reports, &c., From Drs. Stephens and Christophers, West Coast of Africa,” in Reports to the Malaria Committee of the Royal Society, 3rd ser. (London: Harrison and Sons, St. Martin’s Lane, 1900).

[12] Herbert Macaulay, The Lagos Land Question (Lagos: Tika-Tore, 1912).

[13] Peter Marris, Family and Social Change in an Africa City: A Study of Rehousing in Lagos (Evanston, IL: Northwestern University Press, 1962).

[14] “Lagos Slum Scheme: For Whose Benefit?” Daily Service, November 21, 1955.

[15] Quoted in Sandra Barnes, Patrons and Power: Creating a Political Community in Metropolitan Lagos (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1986), 78.

[16] Stephanie Ohumu, “How to Kill a Monument: The Demolition of Ilojo Bar,” This Is Africa, September 21, 2016, https://thisisafrica.me/arts-and-culture/kill-monument-demolition-ilojo-bar/

[17] Lookman Oshodi, “Housing Situation in Lagos, Nigeria,” Lookman Oshodi: International Development, Urban Infrastructure and Governance (blog), November 24, 2010, https://oshlookman.wordpress.com/2010/11/24/housing-situation-in-lagos-nigeria/

[18] Estate Intel, The State of the Lagos Housing Market Vol. 2 (2016), https://estateintel.com/reports/the-state-of-the-lagos-housing

[19] Adéwálé Májà-Pearce, “Nothing without Water,” Places Journal, October 2023, https://placesjournal.org/article/lagos-nigeria-and-climate-crisis/

[20] Daniel Currell, “Disney Is the Happiest Place on Earth, if You Can Afford It,” New York Times, August 28, 2025, https://www.nytimes.com/2025/08/28/opinion/disney-world-economy-middle-class-rich.html

[21] Kevin Draper, “How the NBA and MLB Lost Their Fans,” New York Times, June 16, 2025, https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/16/opinion/sports-nba-mlb-leagues-streaming-fan.html

[22] Steffen Wetzstein, “Toward Affordable Cities? Critically Exploring the Market-Based Housing Supply Policy Proposition,” Housing Policy Debate 32, no. 3 (2022): 506–532, https://doi.org/10.1080/10511482.2021.1871932

[23] The Center for Social Housing and Public Investment, “Part 2: The Economics of Speculation, Demolition and Displacement—A Worsening of Washington DC’s Affordable Housing Crisis,” Reports, Social Housing Center, https://www.socialhousingcenter.org/reports-2

[24] Nomusa Makhubu, “‘This House Is Not for Sale’: Nollywood’s Spatial Politics and Concepts of ‘Home’ in Zina Saro-Wiwa’s Art,” African Arts 49 (2016): 58–69.

[25] Allyn Gaestel, “Things Fall Apart,” Atavist Magazine, no. 76 (2018), https://magazine.atavist.com/things-fall-apart-makoko-floating-school

[26] “Nigerians Try to Make Sense of What Was Lost in the Makoko Fishing Village Demolition,” New York Times, January 16, 2026, https://www.nytimes.com/2026/01/16/world/africa/nigeria-makoko-fishing-village-destroyed.html

What might be Lagos’s most internationally recognizable building project since the 1980s isn’t a skyscraper or a suspension bridge — it’s a one-room schoolhouse. The now well-known A-frame bobs in the murky surf of Makoko, one of Lagos’s largest slums, providing a learning space for a community of 100,000+ people not officially recognized by the city government. Designed by Nigeria’s rising star Kunlé Adeyemi, the project made waves in the architectural world last year for its simplicity, adaptability, and humanity. I first read (and blogged) about the project last fall and was struck by the auroral beauty of the blue-roofed building set against the cooking smoke and plain timber structures of Makoko where new homes are often constructed on a soggy foundation of raw sewage (see episode 2 of the BBC’s documentary Welcome to Lagos). Here was a project that had actually succeeded in that often sought but rarely realized gauntlet of creating low-cost, high-design buildings from recycled material to benefit poor communities. Write-ups poured in from the New York Times, The Guardian, and many others, and Makoko Floating School splashed across my newsfeed for several weeks.

Last summer when I was in Lagos for the first time, I saw the school from the Third Mainland Bridge moments before glimpsing the city’s skyline and I have to admit that the school stole the spotlight. The Third Mainland Bridge is the longest bridge in Africa, meandering from Ebute Meta to Lagos Island, and, about halfway along, it provides the perfect balcony to view Akeyemi’s school (where I took the photo below). Akeyemi certainly knew how to make the most of a small-scale project that other architects might have scoffed at. For making a name for himself Akeyemi had good training — he worked at Koolhaas’s firm OMA for nearly a decade before founding his own firm NLÉ in 2010. His relationship with Koolhaas adds a fascinating dimension to Adeyemi’s project since Koolhaas’s Harvard Project on the City produced some of the most provocative writing on Lagos to date. Koolhaas challenged outside observers to see Lagos as being at the “forefront of globalizing modernity” — a dynamic urban space that had outgrown Western notions of the city and carrying capacity to become a “self-organizing” entity that completely disorientated visitors but somehow “worked.” Within this paradigm, it’s not surprising that Adeyemi saw that the future was in Lagos and returned to set-up shop. But of course his move and the civically-concerned design he’s been involved in since being back puts a twist on Koolhaas’s “self-organizing” thesis.

Away from the stratosphere of starchitects, the school itself has become the pride of Makoko, a place for a handful of youths to get an education long denied to the unincorporated fishing community. Every day local children park their hollowed out wooden canoes around the floating school and gather on its open-air decks for class, and in the evenings the buoyant building becomes a community center for local leaders. The project is only the prototype of a much larger masterplan that Adeyemi envisions for Makoko, and if funding comes through all of the neighborhood’s stilt-supported shacks will one day be replaced by floating A-frames. When that happens, it may just be a sight to rival Eko Atlantic — the megaproject of office buildings developing on the other side of the city and architectural spectrum.

IMG_3012

(Mark Duerksen 2014)

In 2009 David Adjaye and Philip Freelon’s plans for an inverted and stacked trapezoidal building encased in bronze screens won the design competition for the construction of the National Museum of African American History and Culture (NMAAHC). When the building opens in late 2015, it will have been 100 years since African American Civil War veterans first proposed a DC memorial honoring various African American achievements. This centennial timeline illustrates how long the struggle has dragged on to construct a monument to African American history, it also reminds us just how recently millions of Africans were enslaved in America by the fact that men who actually fought to end slavery were connected to this ongoing project. The building itself mines the more distant connection of the African origin of American slaves for its defining tripartite trapezoids, which evoke Yoruba carved wood columns–specifically the crowns at the top of the columns (not a king’s “crown” as many articles mistakenly assume)–found on traditional buildings in southwest Nigeria. The reference to Yoruba pillars subtly suggests the prominence of African American scientists, artists, and politicians in the creation of America, and also–to use the museum’s term–“the darker corners” of the reality that America was built on the backs of enslaved Africans. Revisions to the original winning design, including a third tier, have further brought out the form of a sculpted Yoruba column, whereas before the plans looked equally like a shimmering fire above a base of a flat funeral pyre…not exactly the imagery a museum to African American culture wants to evoke. The redesign removes the red-stone base, integrating the crown with the ground level. While these have been improvements to the original vision, budget concerns have scrapped plans for an entrance that would have crossed a series of intricately landscaped waterways, reverently breaking the stride of visitors as they approached and serving as a reminder of the middle passage crossing. Another victim of the budget has been the bronze facade, which will now be fashioned from some kind of coated composite. There are concerns whether the new material will shine and if it will eventually flake off. Perhaps, in an America where pernicious racism chips away at any optimism for a united union, nothing could be a more fitting symbol for the dream of a nation that recognizes and honors the contributions and heritage of African Americans…except for maybe a funeral pyre…or, maybe yet, the shift in the form of the building’s tragic flaw from funeral pyre to a million paint specks speaks to the shifts in the way American racism operates.

IMG_3851

Yoruba columns in the house of Susanne Wenger (Mark Duerksen, 2014)

Screen shot 2014-09-28 at 11.12.06 PM

Columns carved by Olowe of Ise (source)

1

Original design (source)

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Redesign (source)

…are profiled in this CNN article. This exciting new generation of camera wielders are rapidly changing the image of the continent and many share their work with thousands of followers on instagram (check out “truthslinger”‘s profile and the incredible images of life in Kenya he shares with 35k followers). I especially like the “Future Memories” series by Michael Tsegaye that captures bleak frames of recent large-scale Addis Ababa construction projects juxtaposed with more rural imagery (cattle, hand-washing clothes, and a great one of silhouetted wooden scaffolding). I don’t usually love black and white photography, but in this case, the medium does a perfect job of capturing the rapid inevitableness of the fading and cracking that the buildings will endure as they age. Do these images give a glimpse into the memories of this new wave of large-scale construction projects? Will they be remembered differently than the grand independence era towers and monuments that now look painfully optimistic in photographs from the time of their celebratory completions.

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Image Source (photographer:  Michael Tsegaye)

A summary of a book by the title of this post was published last month on the African Research Initiative’s Website (an awesome resource), so here’s my summary of that summary. The book by Vanessa Watson (U of Cape Town) and Babatunde Agbola (U of Ibadan) looks at the future of African cities and examines current planning practices and emphasis in the continent. The book has a strong belief that African planners should plan the future based on planning theories that originate in the global South, not the top-down, formalization-centered European and American norms. Rather than perceiving planners as part of the status quo of plans that benefit big business and political elites, the book imagines a proliferation of a network of planning schools in Africa (from the current dearth of only 90 in the continent with 30 of those in Nigeria and 10 in SA) that tailor their curriculums towards addressing inequality through participatory, survey-based planning methods (getting “shoes dirty”) that strive to account for informality as a fact in Africa instead of a nuisance to be eradicated through eminent domain (Makoko, Harare). One interesting fact from the summary was that currently the majority of African city dwellers were born in the city they are living in, which challenges the perspective of African cities as transient hubs for migrants who plan to return to the countryside. The authors critique the current “fanciful” master plans for African urban areas as “unsustainable in the extreme and inappropriate in terms of climate, available infrastructure – particularly power – and affordability.” Like Philip Harrison, in his article “The Edge of Reason,” this new book looks to redeem planners from the image of nefarious technocrats to the liberal, clipboard yielding, muddy boots lifeblood of participatory democratic institutions in Africa. Now to get this new breed of planners jobs and decent pay upon graduation…

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An excellent article in the New Republic by Eve Fairbanks about the attack on Westgate Mall as an attack on what has become a popular symbol of Africa’s future:  shopping malls. The article is worth reading in its entirety, but in it Fairbanks recounts how large shopping malls have proliferated in the last couple of decades in many African countries, becoming the most popular hangout spot for all kinds of people from ex-pats to artists to very poor people, not just angsty teenagers. They’re the physical symbol of Africa’s rising middle class and the consumerism comes with it (retail is the hottest area of investment in Africa according to the article)–they’re where all kinds of African urban dwellers come “to act out a dream of the African future.” And in striking contrast to much of the surrounding cities, it’s a dream where has been planned with beautiful and clean infrastructure, running water, and electricity. It’s also a place where new identities can be experimented with, and where anyone is permitted to visit–it’s an open space unlike many walled and gated restaurants or hotels in African cities. Unfortunately this may begin to change in the wake of Westgate…security will certainly be beefed up, and Fairbanks wonders if rougher-looking people from the slums who used to come to window gaze and to dream about the future might begin to be turned away, stratifying what used to be a welcoming and cosmopolitan vision of Africa’s future.

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Today I wrote a response paper summarizing and comparing this article by Filip De Boeck and this powerpoint presentation by Vanessa Watson. I’m not satisfied with what I wrote so I’m going to attempt to hash out my ideas a little better here. So the Watson presentation is intended for her architecture students at the University of Cape Town and in it she runs through the big African planned “future cities” or what she calls “fantasy cities,” showing glamorous designs of them, and then on the next slide shows the “reality” of the actual slums that make up most of the area of these cities. I haven’t been in her actual lecture, but her criticisms seem to be, 1. these cities create islands of wealth that don’t help most of the city’s poor, and 2. the designs of these cities are transplanted from the West via Asia and are not fitted for the realities of African cities. Both points seem fair and accurate, but then the De Boeck piece seeks out the voices of Kinshasa’s urban farmers who are surprisingly attracted to the skyscraper-centric plans, saying “Yes, we’ll be the victims, but still it will be beautiful.” The dream of these new cities can also be alluring and captivating even to the urban poor who will not have access to them…the thought of one day being part of an international megacity frequented by the world’s who’s who evokes pride in one’s hometown and offers hopes that that wealth may find its way throughout the city. These are the similar sentiments to what Wole Soyinka expressed when he said Eko Atlantic is “[r]ising like Aphrodite from the foam of the Atlantic.” Many African urban dwellers desire symbols of beauty and pride to rise from the centers of their cities—buildings that are “so beautiful that it makes one dream.” In this light of these local reactions, current plans for shiny business districts of African cities might rather be looked at as monuments to the potential of the surrounding city, not as unsustainable parasites of corporations. Yet Watson is absolutely right that many of the “monuments” that are being sold by international corporations and architectural firms to African politicians are problematic in that they segregate cities often more than their colonial predecessors did:  De Boeck describes how Belgian colonial planners divided Kinshasa between the white island of wealth—La Ville—and the surrounding ocean of poverty—the black townships—with railroads and army barracks. Now the new wave of planned cities are gated island or 40 km away from the old city, taking the colonialist exclusionary model even further than before. Yet they’re still beautiful and desirable to the urban poor….their allure stimulates dreams for the future….and dreams are what keep everyone going. And also if you were an African doctor or lawyer or business person who might be tempted to leave for opportunities elsewhere where it is safer and stabler to have a family and raise kids (the brain drain), wouldn’t you be more likely to consider staying if you could have a home in Eko Atlantic or Cité du Fleuve? The ways in which the urban poor of Kinshasa have navigated and adapted to their infrastructurally scant neighborhoods (as described by Koolhaas and De Boeck) and the construction of Eko Atlantic and Cité du Fleuve can both be seen as different manifestations of the very human drive to create order and predictability in life. For me this is where the state comes in–as both a creator and moderator of human impetus for stability and security. Here again, the mayor of Lagos, Fashola, seems to be doing a better job at this than his counterparts in much of Africa, including in Kinshasa. Fashola has attracted investment in the glamorous dream of Eko Atlantic but he has also raised tax revenue by not just promising but delivering services, including housing and bus lanes to improve traffic. And the success of Fashola’s incrementalist approach of improving services and infrastructure for neglected, “informal” communities suggests that De Boeck’s prescriptions for slow and achievable planning goals for Kinshasa’s slums are dead on. When rapid changes come to poor neighborhoods, they’re more likely to be uprooted and turned inside out after years of self-organization than to be improved. But the political will has to be there, and the planners, lawyers, business people, and doctors have to be (live) there too….and in subtle but significant ways they will appropriate and alter this “imported” architecture as their own.

Kigali:  “Fantasy and Reality”

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Images in the New York Times of the rubble of Kenya’s Westgate Mall. What happens now to the devastated concrete structure with a crater in the middle of it? Will it be rebuilt with loads of security? Will it be left for squatters? Will it be bulldozed and replaced by a memorial? And here is another troubling detail from the article:  “Western security officials say they believe that several fighters slipped out of the mall during the attack, dropping their guns, changing clothes and blending in with fleeing civilians, an account echoed by some witnesses.”

Here’s a summary I wrote of Stephan F. Miescher’s article, “Building the City of the Future: Visions and Experiences of Modernity in Ghana’s Akosombo Township,” which appeared in the November 2012 issue of the Journal of African History:

In his article, Miescher details the history of the Akosombo Township that the Nkrumah’s government commissioned in the early 1960s to house the workers for the accompanying Akosombo hydroelectric dam. He compares the high modernist visions for the Akosombo township (that Greek Urbanist Constaninos Doxiadis designed) versus the reality that lived out over the years as local workers and their families moved in and brought their own knowledge and lifestyles. The dam and Nkrumah’s modernist agenda has attracted past scholarship, but the visions and experiences of the township’s residents have been ignored. Almost immediately the resident’s modes of living clashed with the official plans as rural workers brought families and animals with them into the city planned for single industrial labors. A makeshift “shadow city” known as the “Combine” sprang up as they tend to in planned modern cities in developing nations (Brasilia), resulting in contention between its inhabitants and the VRA (Volta River Authority) who wished to level it to preserve the model city. Eventually the Combiners were relocated (with the support of the national government) and provided with a slab of concrete and building materials to construct approved housing in an orderly, new, and visually sanitized community.

Having recounted Akosombo’s history, Miescher evaluates the legacy of Ghana’s venture into high modernist city planning:

“Thus, is Akosombo just another instance of failed modernization, of which there are many in postcolonial Africa – another example of the ‘flaws of hubris in high-modernist urban planning’…?…Not quite. Akosombo continues to be an attractive place to live. While most urban areas in Ghana have chronic power failures, insufficient water supplies, roads with potholes, and limited health care, the infrastructure at Akosombo remains among the country’s best and the reputation of its schools and hospital ranks high. Akosombo is the township that works.”

Just because a city does not fulfill the original (often high modernist) vision laid out for it does not automatically doom it to failure, and Miescher does a great job not following into the easy mistake of tossing Akosombo into the pile of failed planned African cities just because it did not follow the original vision of Doxiadis to a T. What I think separates Akosombo from the pile is that there was a continued dialogue (even if contentious at times) between its residents and the government and instead of the Combine simply being torn down, a solution was arrived at that seems reasonable and allowed the city to continue functioning and serving its residents. The other day I was reading Philip Harrison’s article (On the Edge of Reason:  Planning and Urban Futures in Africa) in which he draws on post-colonial theory to arrive at a theoretical approach to planning in Africa that balances planners’ desires for efficiency and order with the wisdom found in the “multiple rationalities” of local residents of the Global South. The abstract notion of what Harrison wrote seemed to be sensible, but he was only able to point to Johannesburg as what to avoid, which made reading about the concrete example of Akosombo’s success extremely refreshing. This is the kind of project that planners can build off of for future African cities, striving for what Miescher calls “high modernist local knowledge.” And is why historical awareness and a long view of history is essential to planning.

The only thing that I wish the article had gone farther into was the design of the individual houses–how residents found the boxy (western) style, how the material held up over time, and what alterations residents undertook. Images of Akosombo:

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BUILDING THE CITY OF THE FUTURE: VISIONS AND EXPERIENCES OF MODERNITY IN GHANA’S AKOSOMBO TOWNSHIP

 

Highlights from McKinsey report on “How to Make a City Great”:

-by 2030 60% of the world (5 billion people) will live in cities.

-While cities are world’s economic engines, they also account for the most resource consumption and greenhouse gas emissions.

-The report focuses on what successful leaders do to make their cities great. Cites 3 things:  smart growth (that balances the economy, social conditions, and the environment), doing more with less, and winning support for change by delivering results swiftly.

-Smart growth:  simpler tax codes, focus on clustering industrial sectors in city, invest heavily in infrastructure, train English speakers, constantly set short term achievable goals, adopt regional perspective and collaborate within that region, make planning inclusive (bottom up), build high-density areas (smaller more compact infrastructure), regulate construction projects to build “green” projects, provide opportunities and infrastructure for the marginal residents of the city.

-More with less:  embrace technology, rigorously monitor expenses.

-Win support for change:  be accountable, provide citizens information, build a high-performance team, invest in education, create culture of accountability.

Not surprisingly, there was little ground breaking information in the report. What did strike me was actually how balanced and, in my view, spot on much of the report was (although it was corporately vague and general also). I guess I was hoping it would be actually prescriptive rather than just descriptive couched in prescriptive language. I was looking for it to layout steps and priorities at each stage of development rather than a laundry list of everything cities should be doing (even when doing more with less it’s impossible to do everything). I have an image in my head of representatives from a global corporation equipped with the McKinsey report on Africa sitting down at a meeting with the governor of an African city who has a copy of this city report in his briefcase, and each side being miffed at McKinsey:  the governor annoyed of the portrayal of Africa as a fruit ripe for the picking, where resources can be extracted and consumerism sold, and the corporation disappointed that the governor is demanding infrastructure investment and environmental pledges in exchange for business licenses and trading rights. I guess that’s the nature of soliciting information from a consulting firm.

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Following up onmthe last post, here’s another article (from the August New Yorker) questioning whether Mayor Fashola is leaving behind the city’s poorer residents in his pursuit of glamorous projects like Eko Atlantic that provide clean water and reliable power for the ultra rich. The article points to the Makoko slum built over polluted water on boards and logs and asks why solutions like the floating school designed by Kunle Adeyimi isn’t being developed for the people struggling in Makoko. For a look into life in Makoko read this article on the slum’s high teenage birthrate. After years of predominately positive coverage of improvements in Lagos the media seems to definitely be going through a more negative phase…I imagine that much of Fashola’s legacy will be tied to Eko Atlantic for better or worse and making sure the project is completed is consuming the majority of his time currently. What EA will mean for the rest of Lagos is yet to be seen. I have a chance to ask Mayor Fashola a question during a group video conference next week and am thinking about what I should ask and will be sure to share his response here. The article did a nice job juxtaposing these two images of EA and Makoko:

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